Peter Maude Fine Wines
Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, TOSCANA 20th Anniversary Vertical x 6 Bottle Box
Bibi Graetz Testamatta 6 bottle box contains 2007, 2012, 2013, 2015, 2018, and 2019 vintage.
2007: Graetz's 2007 Testamatta is soft and seamless as it flows onto the palate, revealing a silky, luxurious expression of fruit. The tannins are remarkably soft and well balanced, which makes the 2007 one of the most accessible young Testamattas I can recall tasting. Floral tones on the finish add a touch of brightness and lift on the close. While the 2007 isn't overly complex or powerful, it does offer superb balance and delivers plenty of pleasure, even at this early stage. This is first-class juice. 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
2012: A hail-affected vintage, the growing season in 2012 actually ended quite well. This lacks some depth of colour but is not that evolved. The nose is fragrant, discreet rather than powerful. Freshness and delicacy mark the palate too, and there is none of the over-extraction of earlier vintages. It remains lively and precise, and has fine balance and length, though it's a touch fragile. 92/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2013: An exceptional wine from an exceptional year. The nose is zesty and seductive with enticing cherry aromas. Fresh, lively and concentrated, it has integrated tannins, lifted acidity and exemplary balance, still showing tension and clarity. Excellent length. 95/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2015: Another fine year produced this pure expression of Sangiovese fruit. The nose is reticent but floral, infused with rose petals and red fruits. It's concentrated on the palate but svelte too, and not overly extracted. The tannins are certainly present but not dominant, balanced by the wine's freshness. There's force and drive on the very long finish. 94/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2018: Finely textured, with a nuanced perfume that fills the glass and takes you to the intense underbrush of Tuscany. Succulent and yet savoury, this has a lilting freshness that is overlaid with ripe berry fruits, sage and white pepper spice, and clear minerality in terms of its scraping texture that makes your mouth water on the finish. Feels light and sculpted and yet has an intensity that skewers you to the spot. This is a great wine, with scope and imagination that doesn't want to let you go. Genuinely stands out among the wines of this tasting, and these are a fine array of wines. As with Colore, Bibi Graetz selects only old vines, the youngest 50 years old from five different vineyard sites across Tuscany, all farmed organically. Fermentations in open 225l barrels with natural yeasts and manual punch downs. 100/100 Jane Anson, Decanter.
2019: The 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don't overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months. 96/100 Georgina Hindle, Decanter.