Peter Maude Fine Wines

2024, Domaine Pernot Belicard, PULIGNY-MONTRACHET, 1er Cru, 'Les Folatieres'

$272

Wines with this label are made from juice coming from within the Pernot family but not currently in the domaine. Paul Pernot is the largest landholder in Folatières, with 3.09 hectares that will be split between the next generation of winemakers.

The 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru is technically a négociant bottling, as the fruit was bought (hence the black label), although it reverts to "Domaine" from 2025 as the vines were purchased. This has a tightly wound, stony, almost austere bouquet that suggests bottle age is needed. The palate is well balanced with a silver bead of acidity, quite precise with impressive sapidity and a discrete underlying bitterness that keeps this Puligny on edge all the way through. Very promising but patience required. 2027-2044
93 Neal Martin, Vinous.

Grapes from the family vineyards, from four plots planted in 1953, 1961, 1973 and 2003. Mid lemon in colour, with a toastiness from the oak, but not too much. There is evidently some density, from the start, which really kicks in half way back. This has great potential, and the toasty element sits well with the ripe yellow fruit. Drink from 2030-2036.
**** 92-94 Jasper Morris MW.

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