
Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Domaine Henri Magnien, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, 1er Cru, 'Estournelles St. Jacques'
This vineyard is high on the hillside, facing due south, giving a wine which is full of energy. Breezes coming down the little valley beside these First Growths on the Côte Saint Jacques help to evaporate liquid from the berries, concentrating the juices. The vines are around 60 years old and this wine has been maturing in 50% new oak barrels. Colour is ruby of medium depth, aromas are fresh, fine and complex. Palate has rich body with broad fruitiness, tight-packed energy, well-absorbed tannins and impressive length (for drinking 2026-2036+).
Haynes Hanson & Clark, UK.
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a bouquet similar to the Les Champeaux, though I discern a little more focus and precision here. The palate is very well balanced with gentle grip and chiseled tannins that frame the mélange of red and black fruit. It's almost flinty with a dash of black pepper on the finish. This is very promising.
93 Neal Martin, Vinous.
A perfumed, elegant and airy nose freely offers up its beautifully layered aromas of violet, dark currant, spice and an all but invisible application of oak. The refined and decidedly punchy light to barely middle weight flavours are borderline aggressively mineral-driven while exhibiting excellent length on the dusty and youthfully austere finale. This is undeniably classy. OUTSTANDING.
92 Burghound.