
Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Domaine Chandon de Briailles, SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE, 1er Cru, 'Les Lavières'
The vines run parallel with the road into Savigny, so one side of the rows faces south and where grapes had got wrinkled in the sun they were rejected. Those on the other side looked impeccable. An imperial purple colour, with an almost unbearably seductive bouquet with a rich with an incredibly rich raspberry flavour. Less structure behind, so this will be an early drinker 13.8%. In bottle. I am resisting 5 stars because these may not be long keepers (but they may also surprise). Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. **** 91-93 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
The Les Lavières from Chandon de Briailles is delightful, offering a deep ruby colour, pronounced ripe red and black fruit, with a briary edge and an undercurrent of cocoa powder. The texture is velvety and dense; the tannins are substantial but cloaked with fruit. The grapes are from 2.6ha of south-facing old vines planted in clay, and the team works by horse to avoid compacting the soil. This year's wine has a fairly high pH, suggesting it will open fairly soon after release and be well-suited to early drinking. 94 Charles Curtis MW.
The 2023 Savigny-Lès-Beaune Les Lavières 1er Cru, which had just been bottled, comes from vines planted in 1956. Apparently, the fruit suffered a little shrivelling. It has an open and expressive bouquet with red berry fruit, quite cool and well-defined. The palate bears the mark of the warmth at harvest, with slight figgy notes in the background that just deviate this cuvée away from pinot noir and dial down the tension. This is another for early consumption. 87 Neal Martin.
Finer, more fluid and airy nose - much more precise. Supple - broader but melting beautifully. Extra intense and wide in this finish - a little saline and complex in the finish. Holding very long in subtle fashion. Bill Nanson.