2023, Domaine Chandon de Briailles, CORTON, Grand Cru, 'Clos du Roi'

First picked, and the first bottled, at the very end of September. It was taken out of wood before the tannins began to dry the wine. A fine mid purple with lighter rim. This is the least obviously rich of the 2023 reds. Quite a refined red fruit nose, back to more classical strawberries, with a floral edge, then useful tannins in part from the stems. Adequate acidity, and a refined stylish finish. Drink from 2030-2037. **** 93 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy. 

The Clos du Roi from Chandon de Briailles is often my favourite expression from this terroir and 2023 is no exception. The wine lives up to its name, showing an almost regal reserve, yet everything is here. There is perhaps more red fruit than black and less initial opulence, but there is an extremely attractive mineral note and a suggestion of peony. The texture is brighter and fresher than many Cortons this year; the differences between terroirs are pronounced in this cellar. The grapes are from 0.4ha at the top of the slope near the white-wine appellation of Corton-Charlemagne. 96 Charles Curtis MW.

The parcel for the 2023 Corton Clos-du-Roi Grand Cru sits toward the top of the vineyard on limestone and white marl soils - no clay. It has a sprightly nose with brambly red fruit, pressed rose petals and just a hint of orange zest - very pure fruit and well-assimilated stems. The palate is medium-bodied with with fine-grained tannins. The texture here is smoother compared to the Corton-Bressandes, offering a vivid finish without the quite nailing the persistence of the previous vintage. 93 Neal Martin.