2023, Domaine Bruno Clavelier, VOSNE-ROMANÉE, 'La Combe Brulée'

Toasty reduction dominates the fruit though there is by contrast very good intensity and freshness to the slightly bigger, though still not particularly dense, flavours that flash equally good minerality on the youthfully austere finish that could also use better depth. 87-90 Burghound.

Planted with 85-year-old vines on calcaire à Chailles geology. Luminous ruby purple. Here the quality comes at the back of the palate. The fruit is a bit more austere up front, then a wealth of fresh strawberry and raspberry, again with good acidity and silky tannins, perhaps a longer finish. The nose is more reticent, but that will arrive in time. Drink from 2028-2033. **** 90-92 Jasper Morris.