2023, Domaine Bruno Clavelier, VOSNE-ROMANÉE, 1er Cru, 'Aux Brulees'

Once again there is an exuberant spiciness to the more dark-fruited nose of plum and violet. There is excellent punch to the detailed and relatively powerful medium-bodied flavours that possess notably better depth on the lingering, firm and balanced finale. Lovely but patience will be needed. Outstanding. 91-93 Burghound.

If you rub the flinty chailles together - Bruno has samples of rocks from all his terroirs in the tasting room - you get the singed smoky nose which doubtless gave Aux Brûlées its name. What a wonderful bouquet the 2023 Brûlées is displaying, this time with enhanced concentration. This whole sector is blossoming with some global warming. Magical dancing energy, such a fresh finish yet the fruit is properly ripe and very long indeed. Drink from 2030-2038. ***** (5 stars) 94-97 Jasper Morris.