2023, Domaine Bruno Clair, MOREY-SAINT-DENIS, 'En la rue de Vergy'

A deft application of wood sets off pretty and spicy aromas of mostly red cherry and raspberry. There is again a lilting mouthfeel to the equally well-detailed and stony flavours that also conclude in a youthfully austere finish though here, the austerity isn't aggressive. Moreover, the finish offers excellent length and overall, this is one to consider. Outstanding. 89-91 Burghound.

 The 2023 Morey Saint-Denis En la Rue de Vergy has a very classy bouquet with wonderful definition and a sense of control as it unfurls with blackberry, briar and light blood orange scents. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, fleshy tannins. There is a slightly candied quality to this Morey-Saint-Denis and a touch of menthol on the finish. Real vibrancy here. 91-93 Neal Martin.

Bruno Clair's wine from the top of the Morey slope above the Clos de Tart is charmingly seductive in 2023, with an expressive blackberry aroma and hints of liquorice and smoke. The texture is silky and supple, but there is great finesse and freshness to draw this to a surprisingly persistent finish. The grapes are from a parcel of more than a half-hectare that Bruno planted in his early career; they are partially destemmed before fermentation. 93 Charles Curtis MW.