Peter Maude Fine Wines
2021, Domaine Bruno Clair, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, 1er Cru, 'Clos du Fonteny' (MONOPOLE)
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru has a fresh, vibrant and mineral-driven bouquet, touches of incense emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lots of finesse here, just a touch lactic towards the finish but it's smooth and harmonious. I see this as being quite approachable compared to other vintages. 90-92 Neal Martin, Vinous.
Although this took a long time to come around in the 2021 vintage, according to Bruno, it is at this point a lovely, expressive wine. Somewhat on the lighter side with a nose of bright cherry fruit and mineral notes, the wine is structured and fresh on the palate with good length. It is produced from the Clair monopole of the Clos de Fonteny just north of Mazis-Chambertin. The fermentation was done with a healthy inclusion of whole clusters and is ageing at present in cask (30% new). 93 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.
From vines planted in the 1970s and '80s, the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos du Fonteny delivers attractive aromas of dark berries, petals, orange rind and spices, followed by a medium-bodied, supple and open-knit palate that's a little diffuse this year. 88-90 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2036