Peter Maude Fine Wines

2020, Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, 500ml

$145

When this sample arrived, my heart quickened, and I tasted it at my first opportunity. Why? Because it doesn't matter what vintage you manage to track down, this wine is always celestial. In 2020, alongside the trademark beeswax, honeycomb, pineapple, peach, pear and countless other descriptors, you will find an acid structure that defies belief.  Then one notices the colour or lack thereof. This is a painfully pale wine for such an all-singing and dancing flavour. I have seen these rare characteristics several times over the years, and they signal a Vin de Constance of uncommon longevity.  Pale, taut and yet explosive = an epic vintage. And suppose you are tempted to open a bottle when it arrives this autumn. In that case, you do not have to feel guilty because it tastes incredible, but I think you might be able to forget about this wine for three or more decades, and it will still knock you over with its complexity and grace.  19+/20 Matthew Jukes, matthewjukes.com.

Highly floral and concentrated nose full of marmalade, orange zest, toasted caramel patisserie, orange blossom, a Tutti Fruitti element and some soft oak touches too. Thick and viscous, comforting and deep with a weighty, sugary texture offset by serious spiced and toasted edges that give this angles and a taught frame. Serious, not so easy and generous, more dense and concentrated, this feels well built and purposeful. The sweetness (butterscotch, thick creamy lemon and apricot yoghurt and hints of honey) is countered by a delicious citrus zestiness and bitter orange touches. I adore the combination of flavours and this feels expertly made with precision, freshness and clarity. Lots to enjoy and think about here with a satisfying, long, mineral grip on the finish. 96/100 Georgina Hindle, Decanter.

Rich rose gold in colour, just so much interest and depth on the aromatics. I always look forward to tasting this wine, and it never seems to disappoint. Dried apricot, caramel, patisserie, peach pit, sage, cardamon, sweet fleshy nectarine. This was a balanced vintage that was warm but not with the drought conditions of 2019, but it has plenty of sun-sweetened character, with lime zest twisting through the raising the tension and energy. Tasted twice. Matthew Day winemaker. 95 Jane Anson.

Bright medium-gold hue with a focused and intense nose layered with honeysuckle, apricot, citrus, honey and marmalade. A hint of mineral, too. Really pure and tangy with a luscious palate balanced by intense citrusy flavours and natural acidity that is beautifully chiselled to the palate. Long and effortless. Consistently great muscat here. Drinkable now if you love the vibrancy of it, but one could keep this for a decade or two. 96 James Suckling.

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