Peter Maude Fine Wines
2020, Château Fuissé, POUILLY-FUISSÉ, 'Le Clos', MONOPOLE
The stone walls of "Le Clos" vineyard, (a monopole) surround the Château de Fuissé itself. The "vieilles vignes" or old vines (more than 50 years old) of this exceptional parcel express the perfect harmony of the three soil-types present within the vineyard, giving complexity this great White Burgundy wine - recently promoted to Premier Cru status. Aged in oak barrels ( 80% new)
Located in the heart of the village of Fuissé itself, on thin clay and marl soils over limestone at the top of the slope. The oldest vines were planted in the 1920s; average age is 60 years old. The wine is aged in cask on the lees and stirred every fortnight. It is a rich style, with a nose that is almost honeyed, showing floral notes and a ripe apple, almost pineapple fruit. The texture is dense and very long; it is a classic of the region and very traditional in style. 93 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.
Le Clos has 3 hectares, on limestone, marl and clay with some of the Château’s oldest vines, planted in 1929. 70-80% aged in 3 year + barrels.
Bénédicte opened the 2018 vintage to show what should be expected when the wine is ready to drink - A lovely honeyed nose, fragrant, round and concentrated which dances around in the mouth - In short, delightful. The 2020 is already an elegant chardonnay, very mineral and lean on the palate. Still to soften and open up as very young. Katharine Maude 29/09/22.
Hint of vanilla frames the lemon and floral aromas of essence of green apple. The sleek, intense and overtly mineral-driven flavours terminate in a bitter lemon-inflected finish that is clean dry and sneaky long. This gorgeously textured but seriously powerful effort is more refined and a wine that should amply repay mid-term cellaring. Excellent. Outstanding. 93 Burghound.