2020, Château Certan de May, POMEROL

Bordeaux Blend: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon.

I expressed strong reservations towards the 2020 Certan de May in barrel, and sad to say, there is no reason to alter my view from bottle. For a start, the nose feels very herbaceous and lacks the complexity of the preceding Hosanna. Despite rigorous coaxing, it just doesn't click into gear. The palate shows marginal improvement with a little more substance, but where is the nuance, the depth, the complexity that this Pomerol can deliver in spades? 86 Neal Martin, Vinous.

The 2020 Certan de May has come together nicely. It remains a powerful, perhaps even monolithic, Pomerol, and yet it offers very good balance. A blast of black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, liquorice and incense announces this decidedly brooding Pomerol. There's certainly plenty of depth and big tannins to match. The substantial finish is impressive. I would give this a few years in bottle to see what happens. The 2020 is a bruiser, that much is pretty evident. 91 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

This is pretty sombre, with a more Left Bank feel than many, really get the savoury and pared back dark berry feel of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, ensuring that the pressure from the tannins is to the fore. As it relaxes in the glass, a grilled coffee bean and liquorice note comes out. This is a lovely and powerful wine that takes its foot off the pedal at the right moment. Has personality and sets itself apart. Really enjoyable, in the Gazin-style in that this is subtly powerful rather than over-exuberant. New cellars at Certan de May, harvest of Merlot September 11 to 16, and the two Cabernets September 28 and 29. 95 Jane Anson, Decanter.

Drinking Window: 2025 - 2038