Chambolle-Musigny, Côtes-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France

"For Chambolles with a difference, wines which are substantial, even sturdy, as well as velvety and elegant, the best source is the Roumier domaine: to be precise, because there are two others in the village, the Domaine Georges Roumier. This is one of the longest-established estate bottling domaines in the Côte D’Or. And one of the very best of all". Clive Coates, MV, Decanter

The domaine was founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, who began domaine bottling in 1945. He was succeeded in 1957 by his son Jean-Marie and now grandson Christophe, who joined his father in 1982 and took over completely in 1992. Most of the wines are rented (en fermage) from family members although Ruchottes Chambertin is held on a share cropping deal with an external proprietor, Michel Bonnefond. The wines are seductively fruity in their youth yet with excellent ageing potential.

The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, with a table de tri at the winery since 2003. They are mostly destemmed, albeit depending on vineyard and vintage, with a few more stems being used recently – then placed in wooden fermenters. The juice is given a cool soak at 15° then allowed to start naturally. The juice is punched down twice a day and temperature controlled so as not to exceed 32°C.

There is no great reliance on new wood in the maturation cellar, with 15-25% being used for village wines, 25-40% for premiers’ crus and no more than 50% for Bonnes Mares. In recent years Christophe has been searching for, and achieving, a greater sense of precision in his wines.

What does Christophe Roumier have to say about Chambolle and his wines? “Yes. Chambolle is the most elegant wine of the Côte. There is nothing original about that statement. But for me the wines are also the most mineral. There is a purity, a fruit, an elegance and a distinction which come in large part from the extra amount of limestone in our soil, and perhaps the marginally higher altitude. I try to make my wines express this.”

In sum, this is one of Burgundy’s greatest domaines and Christophe Roumier is one of its most intelligent and knowledgeable wine-makers. The combination of the two produces magic.

Sources: Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com

Clive Cotes MW, Decanter.com

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