Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Domaine Y. Clerget, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'Clos du Verseuil'
MONOPOLE. Over the wall from Taillepieds.
The 2023 Volnay Clos de Verseuil 1er Cru is one of the most mineral-driven cuvées from Clerget. This is very fragrant and detailed on the nose with hints of incense emerging slowly. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins. The stems impart a subtle white pepper note, nicely structured with impressive purity and length on the finish. There are few Volnays better than this in 2023.
94-96 Neal Martin.
More middle weight to the aroma – redder fruit again – an almost silky nose. This has character – a bit more saline. Fresh, mobile and delicious.
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report.
Thibaud chose to pick his Monopole first as it never gets hydric stress. All destemmed, 30% new wood. A little firmer in its dark fruit style. Admirable intensity, will almost need to lighten up a bit later on. I could see this with whole bunches and it will have some from 2024. Long finish, bilberries and dark raspberries, good acidity. Drink from 2031-2037.
**** 91-93 Jasper Morris MW.
An herbal tea top note is present on the super-fresh essence of red currant and cherry aromas that are trimmed in admirably discreet wood. The lilting, punch and detailed middle weight flavors conclude in a lightly austere, dusty and balanced finale that exhibits excellent length. Worth a look provided you're willing to cellar it for at least 5 years first. Outstanding.
91-93. Burghound.
