Peter Maude Fine Wines

2018, Château Brane-Cantenac, MARGAUX

$198

Bordeaux blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot.

The property has been in the Lurton family for over a hundred years, and handled by Henri Lurton since 1992. Henri Lurton relies on the richness of the Brane terrior and his great knowledge of the vineyard to produce this aromatic and stunning wine. 

What strikes me about this Brane-Cantenac is the gorgeous centre palate of ripe fruit, which gives an impression of generosity, yet it's tight and reserved at the same time. Fine and polished tannins follow on and drive this gorgeous fruit. 95-96, James Suckling.

Deep and generous blackberry fruits and rich chocolate, there is good balance here with depth and interest and a ton of flavour. Really good stuff, with juice and a drive forward through the palate. 1% Petit Verdot makes up the blend - there was no Carmenère in the grand vin in 2018. A yield of 45hl/ha. 70% new oak. 95 Jane Anson, Decanter.

The 2018 Brane-Cantenac is medium to deep garnet-purple in colour, leaping from the glass with vibrant notes of kirsch, black raspberries and warm cassis, plus suggestions of roses, forest floor and cinnamon stick with a waft of cedar chest. The medium-bodied palate is wonderfully elegant and refreshing, weighing in at just 13.5% alcohol, while not scrimping on the interplay of red and black fruits. It has lovely soft tannins and a long, perfumed finish. Impressive! 93+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate.

The 2018 Brane-Cantenac is like other Bordeaux wines in this vintage insofar as they are not evolving as well as, say, 2016s or 2019s. The fruit is concentrated but just lacks a little delineation, though it opens in the glass with touches of white pepper and black olive. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced, with fleshy ripe tannins that provide a rounded, corpulent texture, but I seek more tension and mineralité on the finish. I actually now prefer the 2017 vintage to the 2018. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025. 90 Neal Martin, Vinous (2025).

The 2018 Brane-Cantenac opens with a super-classic bouquet of dried herbs, pencil shavings, liquorice and mint. Medium in body and wonderfully nuanced, Brane-Cantenac marries the natural richness of the year with a classic structural feel. This is one of the most elegant, restrained 2018s readers will come across. I loved it. 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous (2021).

96/100 Wine Enthusiast

Drinking window: 2026 - 2042

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