2023, Domaine Bruno Clair, BONNES-MARES, Grand Cru

A brooding if attractively perfumed nose features spicy and floral notes of plum, red raspberry and soft wood spice. The round and gorgeously textured flavours possess good volume and solid density while exhibiting excellent power on the sappy, complex and beautifully long finish that, much like the Clos de Bèze, is very much built for extended cellaring. This is potentially great but not a wine that will make for good early drinking. 93-96 Burghound.

An even crimson red, with a gorgeous perfume here, bright red cherries, an exquisite balance. Unforced, then slightly firmer tannins, but this will steady the wine for the longer term. Understated but very classy. Drink from 2032-2040. **** 94-97 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with notes of orange zest, black raspberries, exotic spices, potpourri, violets and incense. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with a cool core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins and animated by lively acids, it concludes with a long, saline finish. 94-96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with black cherries, wild strawberries and loamy aromas coming through with aeration. It is maybe a little Musigny-like. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a gentle grip, slightly peppery in style with a persistent, quite saline finish. Without a doubt, this is fabulous Bonnes-Mares with great potential. It may very land at the top of my banded score. 95-97 Neal Martin.

Structured and substantial; there is a black plum and mulberry fruit, accented with notes of smoke, fresh saddle leather, earth and game. The texture is super-concentrated, with firm, grippy tannins, massive extract, and more than enough freshness to carry this to a superbly long finish. The grapes are from a parcel of 1.64ha on the Morey side of the appellation; the oldest vines were planted just after the Second World War, the youngest being 40 years old. This is top-flight wine. 95 Charles Curtis MW.