Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Domaine William Fèvre, CHABLIS, 1er Cru, 'Vaulorent'
The 2023 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet–oyster shells and a touch of petrichor, quite intense. The palate is well balanced with a pleasant "bite" on the entry. A twist of sour lemon imparts tension and gets the saliva flowering. Fine weight on the finish, this should age well in bottle. 90-92 Neal Martin, Vinous (2024).
Sourced from the upper part of the climat and planted with 40- to 60-year-old vines, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, orange peel, peach, pear and a delicate reductive signature. Medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it is framed by ample, chalky structuring extract and racy acidity, concluding with a persistent, saline finish. This is a terrific performer once again. 94+ Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate (2026).
Pale but glowing, a note of citron confit, an additional depth compared to the Fourchaume. More flesh but perfectly proportioned, fine and elegant, and very long indeed. This should be first class. Flavours will absolutely not go away! As much yellow as white but balanced. ***** 92-95 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (2024).
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2042
