Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Domaine d'Eugénie, CLOS VOUGEOT, Grand Cru
$630.20 inc. GST
80% whole bunch vinification with 19 new barrels out of 26. A glowing purple with darker fruit showing along with a little new wood behind. This has power and tension, more tannins than any of its stable mates, a blacker style of fruit, good acidity. The tannins are firm, but this is just so much more backward than anything else in the cellar and will make a very fine CV in time. Drink from 2034-2045. **** 95-98 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
This is well defined on the nose with black fruit laced with sea spray/oyster shells. In the first tasting, the stems here are fairly tangible, more so than the Echézeaux, but on the second tasting, it has cohered and the stems are far more assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with a tensile entry, quite structured and with a pleasurable briny/sea spray element. Whilst the first showing was a bit compact, the second demonstrates more depth and flesh, with a lovely dash of black pepper on the aftertaste. 93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous.
There is slightly more wood influence apparent on the ripe yet ultra-fresh nose that blends notes of poached plum and black cherry with those of newly turned earth and a smoky hint. The wood can also be found on the caressing yet powerful larger-scaled flavours that coat the palate with sappy dry extract that also helps to buffer the firm tannic spine shaping the impressively long, youthfully austere and compact finale. This is a big wine even by the standards of CV and a wine that's going to require extended keeping. In a word, excellent. 92-95 Burghound.
The 2022 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is terrific, offering up aromas of cherries, dark berries, orange zest, spices and rose petals, followed by a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional palate that's rich and textural, its deep core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It will be hard to choose between this and the Grands-Echézeaux this year. 93-95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.
