Peter Maude Fine Wines
2020, Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, TOSCANA
BIBI GRAETZ, Toscana
Predominantly old vines, with some younger from new vineyards.
Medium mixture soil, rich with galestro (rocky schist) and clay
Natural fermentation in open barriques
“2020 is the year of destiny! It’s like when all the stars are aligned, all the planets are aligned. What I really love of the fruit of Testamatta is this incredible strawberries feeling mixed with aroma of vanilla, kind of whipped-cream with strawberries! It has an incredible freshness, this is the real beauty of Testamatta 2020. This is the highest level of perfection ever reached.” Bibi Graetz.
Gloriously jewel-like in colour, understated joyful frame flowing with juicy black cherry, raspberry, mandarin peel, fresh acidities and bounce. Everything feels in high definition, continuing the evolution of Testamatta from its earliest years. Softly brushed tannins that are barely there, extremely easy to recommend, you are going to want to share this wine. Harvest September 24 to October 25, taking things slowly. From a range of plots set at 400m to 600m altitude across Tuscany, with vines that head up to 80 years old. Natural yeasts, manual punch downs, 10 days maceration and barrel ageing with no new oak. 97/100 Jane Anson.
Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch. 95/100 Monica Larner, Wine Advocate.
Beautiful, fresh aromas of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon bush. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that add brightness and energy to the wine. This is definitely following the new wave of crunchy, vivid Tuscany sangioveses, which emphasize drinkability and transparency. Lighter than past vintages. Drink now or hold. 94/100 James Suckling.