Peter Maude Fine Wines
2020, Bibi Graetz, Colore Rosso, TOSCANA
Siena, Lamole and Vincigliata vineyards.
Over 70 year old vines.
Galestro and clay soils
Natural fermentation in open barriques
Bibi is celebrating his 21st vintage. Unlike other "Super Tuscan" producers he has been exploring the return to Tuscany's native varieties, with the resulting lack of official appellation status due to using 100% Sangiovese and only grapes from very old vines that sometimes sit outside the designated areas for DOCG classification.
From a medieval castle, Castello di Vincigliata, acquired by his parents over 60 years ago, winemaker Bibi Graetz crafts his wines on a hillside overlooking the great city of Florence. Beginning initially with only a small, 5-acre vineyard on this hillside in Fiesole, in little under two decades, Bibi has become one of Italy's most ingenious winemakers. ?What I love is the handmade quality of wines. They have such clarity of fruit, polished structure and personal style. Each bottle is like a tiny, polished sculpture.? James Suckling
"Colore is my first love, my love for the old vines which produce incredible and world class wines. The climate in 2020 has been warmer than usual and gave us a powerful vintage. The combination with our old vines, high altitude and exposure created the magic effect. A wine with a perfect and lively tension where the power of the vintage dances harmonically with the elegance of our vines. We have closed the circle, I think that this year we made the best Colore we've ever made" Bibi Graetz.
A reliably brilliant Colore, full of life, generosity and pleasure. This is perfumed and nuanced, plenty of sage, liqourice root, white pepper, dried roses and campfire soot, against a pristine set of raspberry, damson and fresher redcurrant and greengage fruits. Concentration builds slowly through the palate to show slightly higher tannic grip that Testamatta - although one of the things I enjoy about the Graetz wines is that both Testamatta and Colore have their distinct characters, but it is never clear which one is the 'better' wine. Colore comes from the oldest vineyards of Sangiovese that stretch from 80 to 130 years old, harvested slowly and methodically by going up to eight times through the rows to ensure the right level of maturity before picking - obsessional winemaking that bears results in the glass.
98/100 Jane Anson.
The Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the Colore. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. Colore boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavours and bright acidity are what set Colore apart. 96/100 Monica Larner, Wine Advocate.
The subtlety and perfumed nature of this wine is enchanting, offering flowers, orange peel and cherries. Wonderful ripe strawberries, too. Full-bodied, but not over the top, with tannins that are polished and run the length of the wine. It's tight, but gives you every indication of a terrific wine. You want to drink it now, and you probably should do, because it's so alluring. Yet it will age beautifully as well. Drink or hold.
98/100 James Suckling