Peter Maude Fine Wines

2018, Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard, POMMARD, 1er Cru, 'Les Rugiens'


The 2018 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru has a sensual bouquet with pure red berry fruit, rose petal, rosehip and light mineral scents. This is very seductive and the oak is very neatly enmeshed plus there is assiduous use of whole bunches. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fine salinity, quite concentrated with just a little headiness on the finish. Perhaps it doesn't quite grapple with the warm season as other 2018 Rugiens, but it remains a delicious Pommard. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. 91 Neal Martin, Vinous (2022).

Scents of peonies, Indian spices, plums, citrus peel and wild berries introduce the 2018 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, a medium to full-bodied, layered wine that's deep and concentrated, with powdery tannins and lively acids. More structured than the Epenots, with a longer, mineral-inflected finish, this is Violot-Guillemard's finest 2018, but also the wine that will merit the longest aging. 94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2021).

A slightly more sombre crimson colour, with at first a duller fleshier bouquet. Then some whole bunch aspects as the wine regains some charm and balance. Plenty of grip, noble tannins, weight and length with the right balance of acidity. The bouquet weaves in and out. Very persistent. **** 93 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2022).

As is typically the case this possesses a cooler fruit profile than the Epenots with its ripe essence of red berry, wet stone, floral and exotic tea-scented nose. Once again there is very good volume and underlying tension to the tautly muscular, mineral-driven and powerful flavours that culminate in a very firmly structured finale that exhibits just a bit more persistence and overall depth. This too is one to consider. 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound (2020).

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2042

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