Peter Maude Fine Wines
2015, Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello
The 2015 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino comes together slowly in the glass, requiring a bit of coaxing in its currently-youthful state, opening up to reveal dusty dried florals, pretty strawberry, and crushed stone minerality. Ripe red fruits and spice race across the palate, yet firm up relatively fast, with zesty acids and minerals framing the experience. The finish is long and structured, showing the 2015’s tannic heft, as ripe fruits give way to dried berry and mineral tones. 91 Eric Guido, Vinous (2020).
I tasted this wine next to Frescobaldi's Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from their Tenuta Perano, and the differences between that wine and this are enormous. The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino CastelGiocondo takes us to the southern side of Tuscany, and despite the fact the grape used in both wines is the same (Sangiovese), these two wine are as different as day and night. This Brunello gives you more saturated colour intensity, more substantial weight and density that you feel on all the senses. Its extraction is much thicker, and the bouquet opens to aromas of plummy dark fruit, black currant, tobacco and spice. That ample width and power make this a good choice next to a grilled T-bone steak. 93 Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (2020).
Current winemaker, Filippo Manni arrived at CastelGiocondo at the beginning of 2015. He brings precision to the winemaking, vinifying each of the estate's plots separately then making a selection of these to determine the final blend. Out of 90-120 lots, only about half make the cut for the Brunello. The 2015 displays all of the richness and generosity of the vintage without veering into over-ripeness. Instead, freshness is preserved. Backing luscious cherries and plums, plenty of grainy tannins give well-defined shape. Fragrant mint and pepper impart lovely length to the finish. 93 Michaela Morris, Decanter (2020).
2015 is Castelgiocondo’s first certified-organic vintage, making it Montalcino’s largest certified-organic estate. Poised red fruits demonstrate underlying power. Savoury and velvety in texture, the fruit is clear and juicy: smooth with inner power. 94 Monty Waldin, Decanter (2020).
Drinking Window: 2022 - 2030