2023, Domaine Bruno Clair, CHAMBERTIN, Grand Cru, 'Clos de Bèze'

Firm reduction and a touch of wood toast completely overshadows the fruit. More interesting are the super-sleep, intense and wonderfully detailed bigger-bodied flavours that also conclude in markedly structured, austere and built-to-age finale that displays even better depth and persistence. This too is clearly going to need extended keeping. 93-96 Burghound.

Two thirds planted before the 1914 war, while the 1950s planting is more virused. A deeper crimson colour, with a mild reduction on the nose, which doesn't sit too much on the fruit happily, and I love how this develops across the palate, in waves with a crystalline minerality behind. Possibly the reduction toughens up the finish a fraction just now, but this is a harmless level at this stage. Drink from 2032-2040. **** 95-97 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.

The 2023 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is also terrific, bursting with notes of dark berry fruit mingled with hints of peony, vine smoke, orange zest and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's elegantly fleshy, with supple tannins, succulent acids and a long, spicy finish. 94-96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.

The 2023 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a delectable bouquet, so pure and refined, with razor-sharp delineation and gorgeous, vivacious red fruit tinged with bay leaf and forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied with red berry fruit, hints of dark chocolate and crushed stone minerality. It is wonderfully balanced, with a touch of black pepper lingering on the finish. Outstanding. 95-97 Neal Martin.

The Clos de Bèze from Bruno Clair boasts an immense plummy ripe fruit character with notes of earth and spice; there is a slightly reduced character at this stage but this will easily resolve with time and does not tarnish the lustrous fruit. The texture of the wine on the palate shows intense concentration and structure, and yet the overall impression is of a wine that is complete and round. The grapes are from nearly a hectare of the Clos de Bèze; two thirds of this was first planted more than 100 years ago. 97 Charles Curtis MW.