2020, Château Lafleur, AOC POMEROL

Bordeaux Blend: Merlot, Cabernet Franc.

The 2020 Lafleur takes all the elements of this site and dials them up. All of the natural richness and textural intensity of the year comes through in a decidedly flamboyant, opulent Lafleur. It's an immediate Lafleur, that much is obvious. I imagine the classic Lafleur bouquet will develop in bottle, as aeration starts to release some of the classic Bouchet (Cabernet Franc) notes that are such signatures. Today, the sumptuousness of Merlot really drives the wines' balance, with the Bouchet felt mostly in the structural profile. I can't wait to see how this ages. 98+ Antonio Galloni, Vinous (2022).

The 2020 Lafleur is raised in 30% new oak, the rest, for the first time, used at Grand Village for 8 months to reduce the oak influence and season the barrel. (In fact, Jacques Guinaudeau did this in the past). It was bottled in April 2022 after two months settling in large stainless-steel. It has a show stopping nose with stunning delineation and terroir expression. There is a strong mineralité that floods through on the nose, something almost…igneous about the aromas, struck flint and that basalt element that I observed out of barrel. It's a very striking, uncompromising bouquet that expands with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine yet sturdy tannins, intense black fruit intermixed with dark chocolate that ebbs with aeration, revealing more floral aromas after 20 minutes. There is a sense of symmetry on the finish and an extraordinary long aftertaste, while all the time, retaining freshness and vitality. Just wonderful. 98 Neal Martin, Vinous (2022).

One of the wines of the vintage, but likely to prove slower evolving and more introverted than its 2019 counterpart, the 2020 Lafleur unwinds in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries, kirsch, black truffle, orange zest and vine smoke. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit framed by rich, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, saline finish. This is another magical bottle from an estate that just seems to do everything right. 99 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2023).

I was, to be honest, a little unsure of how the gravels here would react to the dry summer but the first hit of graphite and smoky berry fruit makes it clear Lafleur has taken the vintage in its stride. This is an excellent wine, barely showing its potential right now - it's a big year, with knitted-down tannins, serious and powerful, not austere so much as layered, complex and full of hidden energy. The floral aromatics curl up after 10 minutes in the glass, as does bitter chocolate and crushed mint. 98 Jane Anson, Decanter (2021).

Smooth, supple and alive in the glass, this has an energy and brightness. It’s compact and there’s density and concentration, but coiled right now, almost narrow, driving the flavours vertically. Seriously elegant, sophisticated and intellectual with the savoury elements of wet stone, liquorice, dried earth, tobacco and an iris and violet florality lingering and dominating, but this manages to be complex and detailed with polished tannins and a sense of absolute purity. A great Lafleur that will take its time, only just offering a glimpse of what’s to come. 98 Georgina Hindle, Decanter (2023).

Drinking Window: 2030 - 2060