2022, Domaine Clos de Tart, MOREY-SAINT-DENIS, 1er Cru, 'La Forge de Tart'

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru includes 25% whole bunches and is matured in 45% new oak (mainly Taransaud, St. Martin, François Frères). It has a very floral bouquet with violet and hints of lavender in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and gentle grip, growing quite minerally towards the finish. It stays controlled and linear, with a dash of pepper on the aftertaste, precise and tender on the finish. It will require 4-5 years in barrel. 90-92 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).

The 'second wine' of the Clos de Tart demonstrates exceptional quality in 2022, with notes of ripe cassis and blackberry fruit accented by notes of earth and smoke. The texture is concentrated and rich, with powerful tannins and a long finish. The wine is made with younger vines of the Clos from the blocks called Jeanniard and Plantation 2005, along with some older vines coming from clonal selections, although these are now being top-grafted over to massale selection. A quarter of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in cask (45% new). 96 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter (2023).

La Forge 2022 is made from the plantations from 2005 and 2011, both selection massale, plus Ballonge 2 (1984) and La Forge (1999), which are both in clones though these are being top-grafted with massal selections. 45% new wood and 25% whole bunch vinification. An impressively rich deep colour, with a concentrate dark berry fruit. The wine on the palate seems exceptionally youthful and will need much more elevage. Surprisingly black fruit and four square, more reminiscent of Sylvain Pitiot's wines than I would have expected. The terroir is dominant! **** 92-95 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).

A discreet though not invisible application of wood sets off ripe aromas of black raspberry, violet, rose petal, exotic tea and a hint of spiced plum. There is slightly better energy to the caressing yet powerful and serious medium-bodied flavours that terminate in a dusty, youthfully austere and balanced finale that is firm enough to easily repay a decade plus of keeping. Fine quality here. 91-93 Allen Meadows, Burghound (2024).

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2040