Peter Maude Fine Wines

2021, Domaine Samuel Billaud, CHABLIS, 1er Cru, 'Mont de Milieu'


Made from the usual three sectors, at a yield of 15-20 hl/ha, with 20% barrel. A slightly paler colour with discreet bouquet. Excellent tension, a pure white apple and fresh pear fruit, really precise here while maintaining complexity, really very persistent. Beautifully mineral finish, really very fine. ***** (5 stars) 93-95 Jasper Morris MW. 

The 2021 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru is matured 80% in stainless steel and 20% in barrels for 12 months whereupon it is blended and raised for another six months. This has one of the more austere and backward bouquets from Billaud this year - one for hardcore Chablis-lovers. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, austere and linear, very saline - a serious Chablis that should only be consumed with a large plate of seafood. 92-94 Neal Martin, Vinous. 

As is often the case with Mont de Milieu there is a suggestion of the exotic lurking in the background of the naturally spicy aromas of tidal pool, citrus confit and shellfish. There is once again outstanding density and volume to the powerful middleweight plus flavours that brim with dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm acid spine shaping the stony, highly complex and bitter lemon-suffused finish. This is really quite impressive and like rolling tiny rocks around in the mouth! Sweet Spot Outstanding. 92-94 Burghound. 

3 heights of vines, all harvested by hand and vilified together as they are small parcels. 20% 450l barrel elevage - all assembled in tank on lees. Youngest vines here are well over 60-years-old. Less direct, good width and clearly there's more complexity here. Super in the mouth - there's volume, clarity and energy - a fluidity that's almost at the same level as the Vaillons too - that's, maybe, the best MdM I've tasted so far this year (so far)! Bill Nanson.

Drinking Window: 2025 - 2032

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