Peter Maude Fine Wines
2021, Domaine Bruno Clair, BONNES-MARES Grand Cru
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a fragrant nose, a mixture of red and blue fruit, well-defined and focused. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, layers of red and black fruit, a little reduction from the lees at the moment that will protect the freshness and allow them to add less SO2. Very persistent on the finish. Excellent. 94-96 Neal Martin, Vinous.
Tasting in the cellar, I wrote, 'Wine from another planet'; this is truly spectacular and worthy of notice - super-ripe plummy fruit with an undercurrent of ground coffee, smoke and spice on the nose. The texture is substantial and dense, with firm tannins and exceptional length. Despite the vintage, this has the proportions to age for decades. It originates from the superb 1.64ha parcel the domaine owns on the Morey-St-Denis side of the appellation. This terroir gives a more substantial, structured version of Bonnes-Mares, while the Chambolle side gives a bit more finesse. Not to be missed. 97 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has also turned out very well, mingling notes of sweet red berries and cherries with hints of rose petals and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it's pure and precise, with a bright spine of acidity and a more tensile, mineral profile than the richer, fleshier Clos de Bèze. 93-95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045