2020, Domaine William Fevre, CHABLIS 1er Cru "Montée de Tonnerre"

Clear light bright lemon, the spices show on the nose, which is right for this vineyard, but there is both power and discretion on hand. Not quite biscuit but there is sort of a wholemeal texture here. Brilliant wine for those who want the more powerful side of Chablis. Still a bit of stone licking at the back. **** 92-95 Jasper Morris MW.

A cool, pure and airy nose also reflects notes of mineral reduction and citrus zest along with more prominent floral and iodine nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully delineated middle weight flavours possess a bracing salinity on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. Like several wines in the range, this needs to develop better depth but it is very stylish and should age effortlessly so more complexity should eventually manifest itself. Sweet Spot Outstanding. 91-94 Burghound.

The 2020 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from three parcels that include the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1936. It is strict and linear on the nose, the most backward of the Premier Crus, but very mineral and stern. The palate is well balanced, citric and mineral-driven. Classic Chablis with an austere but beautifully focused finish that will repay cellaring. Excellent. 92-94 Neal Martin.