2022, Domaine Chandon de Briailles, CORTON, Grand Cru, 'Clos du Roi'

The 2022 Corton Clos-du-Roi Grand Cru comes from limestone soils, white marn, and sand, essentially a Charlemagne in red. The very expressive bouquet lives up to its name; there is real nobility and finesse here, more red than black character with pressed rose petals coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite stony in character. It’s not austere but has long a sustain on the aftertaste. 93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).

The 2022 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru is a strong performance, delivering aromas of plums, sweet red fruit compote, rose petals, liquorice and beetroot, followed by a full-bodied, layered and velvety palate that's rich and concentrated, with a stronger mineral undercurrent than the Corton-Bressandes, concluding with a gently tannic finish. 92-94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2024).

Old vines from 1962 which yielded just 26 hl/ha. A bright mid crimson ruby, with a particularly floral nose. The fruit is fine-boned with a pleasing delicacy. Not as obviously complete as the Bressandes, but the detail is fine and fairly persistent, with little wild strawberry notes through to the back. Silky. Important not to search for power here, suggests Claude. This Clos du Roi will need time. **** 93-95 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).

Here too there is a subtle touch of wood present on the ripe but brooding nose of ultra-floral, pure and elegant dark berry fruit aromas. The refinement carries over to the tension-filled, stony and detailed larger-scaled flavours that are a combination of power and taut muscularity on the youthfully austere and hugely long finale. This is seriously impressive but like the Bressandes, a wine that's going to need extended keeping to reach its apogee yet it's not so compact that it couldn't be approached after only 7 to 8 years. If you can find it, buy it. 95 Allen Meadows, Burghound (2024).

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2045