Peter Maude Fine Wines

2019, Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, 500ml

$134

The 2019 Vin de Constance is matured for 18 months in 500-litre Hungarian and French oak barrels, 50% new, followed by another 18 months in oak foudres. The growing season saw more sunlight hours than previous vintages (2,998 compared to 2,588 in 2018 for example). It has an understated nose, almost Sauternes-like even if it does not contain an ounce of botrytis. Subtle nutty aromas percolate through the wild honey and quince scents, wax resin and lanolin. The palate is medium-bodied and very pure. Disarmingly fine acidity, it is slightly Germanic towards the finish. with a hint of lemongrass lingering on the aftertaste. This is a superb Vin de Constance under the tenure of Matt Day that is a step closer to what you might confusingly call a non-sweet dessert wine. 97 Neal Martin, Vinous (2022).

The 2019 vintage was a little unpredictable, with 26 passes in the vineyard between late February and late April to determine optimal ripeness. Each pass was separately vinified, some for zing, others for a more raisin-like profile, blended together late during fermentation for balance, the skill of Matt Day’s guidance is allowing the fermentation to stop naturally through this meticulous process. Aged for 15 months in 50% new French and Hungarian oak followed by a further 15 months larger format foudres the result secures Matt’s place in winemaking history as a youthful legend with another near perfect release of this iconic sweet wine. Glimmering gold in the glass it’s a gorgeous whirl of apricot, orange blossom, hay and lemon curd. Lightly syrupy texture with an uptick of gingery orange zest, there’s a lengthy spiciness to the accomplished finish which soars and surges all at once. For Muscat de Frontignan to feel this elegant and sippable so young is dreamy. If you’ve the patience to cellar it, expect great things. Otherwise this is the ultimate teatime wine to pour right now. 98 Olly Smith, Decanter (2022).

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2050

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