2021, Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, PESSAC-LÉOGNAN, Grand Cru Classé des Graves

Bordeaux Blend: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot

This much respected property in Pessac-Léognan is run with great care by Olivier Bernard whose family took it over from Claude Ricard in 1983.

A medium-bodied DC with a pretty core of ripe fruit that shows licorice, blackberry and some currant character. Spice box, too. Very long, with fine tannins and plenty of energy. 95-96 James Suckling

Inky purple in colour, powerful aromatics. Chevalier is often an estate to turn to in challenging vintages, and is proving its mettle here. This is another league from much of 2021, extremely impressive in quality. Clove, saffron, turmeric, leather, complex layers of flavour that unroll slowly and get a sense of momentum building. The fingerprint of 2021 comes through in the savoury black fruits and austere tannins that need more filling out over ageing, but this is exceptional. 94 Jane Anson

Tobacco- and sous-bois-infused black fruit unfurl with a sense of assuredness on the nose, the best example, a third bottle toward the end of my tastings, being the most delineated. This has energy rather than horsepower. The palate is medium-bodied with pencil-lead-infused black fruit and a slightly powdery texture, certainly the most saline in recent years, leading to an almost Pauillac-inspired finish. Stylish and classic Domaine de Chevalier. 93-95 Neal Martin.

Aromatic nose, perfumed black fruits, bramble tones and a touch of sweet spice. Round and mouthfilling, this has good density and depth for the vintage, tannins are on the juicy plump side with a dry grippy texture though satisfying not austere with the fruit powering through giving cherry and blackcurrant flavours. This has good persistency and doesn't let up - I love the quality of the fruit and the tannins. Really the grapes and the terroir on show. A good success and will be interesting to taste in bottle. 94 Georgina Hindle, Decanter

Aromatic nose, perfumed black fruits, bramble tones and a touch of sweet spice. Round and mouthfilling, this has good density and depth for the vintage, tannins are on the juicy plump side with a dry grippy texture though satisfying not austere with the fruit powering through giving cherry and blackcurrant flavours. This has good persistency and doesn't let up - I love the quality of the fruit and the tannins. Really the grapes and the terroir on show. A good success and will be interesting to taste in bottle. 94 Georgina Hindle, Decanter