Peter Maude Fine Wines

2020, Domaine Samuel Billaud, CHABLIS, 'Les Preuses', Grand Cru

$288

From 60+ year old vines on the plateau part of Les Preuses. A pale lemon colour. The immediately joyous nose is making me smile. A little bit of wood then starts to come up. This has a thick texture but without the simplicity of Bougros, and a screaming kimmeridgian tension at the back. Seemingly endless at the finish. ***** (5 stars) 96 Jasper Morris MW. 

Moderate wood influence surrounds the ripe yet exceptionally fresh aromas of citrus confit, white orchard fruit, iodine and sea breeze. While there is fine intensity, there isn't quite the same concentration to the medium-weight flavours that also possess a refined texture, all wrapped in a lingering finish that isn't quite as structured or complex. This is definitely appealing but doesn't appear to quite have the same upside potential. 92 Burghound. 

More than 70-year-old vines, some two-year-old barrels as for Blanchot. This with the most open of these GC noses - faintly saline with an attractive depth of fruit. Hmm - that's really lovely - it's a little more structural and less fluid and sinuous today - but with clarity and purity of fine flavour. What a beautiful finish - not narrowing just very slowly fading and becoming ever-more airy - bravo! I'd be waiting 10 years to enjoy this but it's already delicious now, of course! Bill Nanson.

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