Peter Maude Fine Wines

2017, Domaine Blain-Gagnard, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'Pitures'

Grown on marl which provides good structure. Mid purple, the nose is quite firm for Volnay. Tight at the back but there is good cherry fruit too and some persistence. *** 89/100 Jasper Morris, MW.

Here too the nose is cool, elegant, airy and high-toned with its pretty array of red cherry, spice and rose petal-suffused aromas. The intense and well-detailed bigger-bodied flavours possess a lovely sense of underlying tension before culminating in a stony, youthfully austere and balanced finale. Like the Pommard villages, this is not particularly concentrated yet the overall sense of harmony makes this quite attractive. 90-92/100 Burghound.

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