Peter Maude Fine Wines

2017, Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany


Blend: 100% Sangiovese.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is incredibly exotic in both spice and floral tones, and an intense wave of cherry and raspberry preserves mixes with hints of tangerine and cocoa that pull you close. This is so deep and fleshy yet energetic in feel, boasting a core of bright acidity that enlivens the experience and motivates the tart wild berries, zesty citrus and inner rose tones. Light tannins linger, yet the 2017 remains juicy and fun, delivering gobs of immediate pleasure though lasting notes of red currant, liquorice and clove. Sadly, there will be no Vigna del Suolo from 2017, as all of that juice was added to bolster the Brunello. Even so, production was down by 35%. 92 Eric Guido, Vinous (2021).

The Argiano 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine of considerable bandwidth with lots of dark fruit, rich plum and spice. It carries medium fruit weight and concentration that proves more than enough to surround and soften the spicy oak notes and toast that also play an important role in this hot-vintage Brunello. The results are plump and slightly round, but you also get the acidity and the tannic structure of an age-worthy Sangiovese. Organically farmed fruit is selected from across the best parcels of the estate, and some of the vines are up to 55 years old. Production is 130,000 bottles, and I would recommend setting this bottle aside for near- to medium-term drinking. 93 Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (2022).

Argiano’s vineyards are located on a high plateau in Montalcino’s warm southwest. CEO Bernardino Sani credits changes like lower density plantings, soil revitalisation and organic cultivation for reducing the impact of drought in 2017. The Brunello is dripping with ripe prickly pear, plum and some macerated berries but misses some of its finessed subtleties. Soft acidity has been preserved and gives buoyancy to round, luscious fruit. The tannins are easy - though a touch green - and the finish is brisk. Will give pleasure in the short-term. 88 Michaela Morris, Decanter (2021).

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2027

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