Peter Maude Fine Wines

2017, Château Haut Bailly, PESSAC-LEOGNAN

$208

Bordeaux Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot.

The 2017 Haut-Bailly is open and focused on the nose with blackberry briary, crushed stone and light blueberry scents, still primal but very delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, sappy red berry fruit and orange rind. Light spicy notes emerge towards the extended finish. More early drinking than 2016, but not to be underrated. Tasted at the Haut-Bailly vertical at the château. 94 Neal Martin, Vinous (2021).

The 2017 Haut-Bailly is racy and polished to the core, with no hard edges and just exceptional beauty. Dark cherry, plum, chocolate, spice, new leather, incense, and grilled herb overtones infuse the 2017 with striking layers of nuance, but it is the wine's feel that really elevates it into the realm of Pessac-Léognan's best. The 2017 is an elegant and exceptionally understated Haut-Bailly. 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous (2019).

Grilled caramel notes set against sappy black fruit show classic Haut-Bailly balance, with savoury cassis and bilberry shot through with liquorice root and finely-spun tannins that tiptoe across the palate. Less monolithic than the 2016 or 2018, clear that this is going to be ready to drink sooner. Harvest September 13 to 29. 4% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. The last vintage under Bob Wilmers. 95 Jane Anson, Decanter.

The 2017 Haut-Bailly is composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Very deep garnet-purple coloured, it has a wonderfully spicy nose of cinnamon stick, cloves, anise and fenugreek with core of roses, warm blueberries, black forest cake and black raspberries plus hints of underbrush and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied with firm, ripe, grainy tannins, it has oodles of freshness and great finesse, continuing bright and energetic on the long, minerally finish. 94-96 Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate (2018).

Drinking Window: 2022 - 2045

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